Zen and the Art of DIY Motorcycle Maintenance #07 …

First MOT Test since 2010 …

Back in Part 5 I explained how here in the UK vehicles have to pass an annual MOT Test for road worthiness. Well, I am very pleased to report that the 1983 Honda CB 250 RSA passed! This was a great relief and pretty much ‘mission accomplished’ for getting this classic little bike up, running and on the road again. The final legal step is Road Tax, just 6 months which will take us into 2024 when this bike can be re-classified as an Historic Vehicle and will no longer require either road tax or an annual mot test.

On the day of the MOT it rained, and it rained for days afterwards. But on Sunday 6th August the little classic Honda went out for a 26 mile shakedown ride after first stopping for a tankful of E5 petrol …
… Here she is at Galley Hill for half decent photographs.
Just over 13 years since last MOT/Road use, but carefully stored in a dry garage by my brother and brought back to life as told by these recent blog posts – Recap Part 2 Part 1 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 … the great little Honda PASSED ‘Fit For The Road’ once again!

Lightweight and agile, Honda’s CB250RS conflicted with its own Superdream for sales and was never as popular. Now, they can be a great back-lane bike with big H reliability.

A great review by Classic Bike Guide

While tackling all the tasks I’ve detailed in this series of blog posts I had to do a fair amount of web searching for parts etc. While doing so I came across the review above which tells the history of this great (and often overlooked) little motorcycle. If you’re a veteran of 1970’s/80’s Japanese bikes it is a great read.

End of Part 7 – And end of this story for now. There are other tasks on my list that no doubt I will add to the ‘Zen and the Art of DIY Motorcycle Maintenance‘ blog posts. For me working on the bike and bringing it back to life and road worthiness has been a very rewarding and wonderful mindful distraction from the ever increasing current financial struggles, and I have to thank my brother for granting me custody of his classic motorcycle and not least for financing the many replacement parts required.

So I realised that as this little story reaches its successful conclusion, another story begins. And that story is my own personal re-association with motorcycles, re-discovering the joy of riding and as I saw somewhere on YouTube the mindful benefits of ‘Throttle Therapy’.

There may be more posts 😉

Thank you for reading.

Recap Part 2 Part 1 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6

… And if you’ve just joined at Part 7, below is a little background to this story.

Motorcycling is in my blood [ RIP Dad – A Truly Great Father ] and because of motorcycles I’ve literally spilled many pints of blood [ Conscious Throughout ] My Dad passed the DNA and the bug to me in 1976 aged 15. My younger brother then aged 10 also caught the bug and eventually carried on the motorcycling tradition for far longer than myself. I rode on and off from age 15 to 40, all weathers, commuting on various ‘hack bikes’ while pampering and saving the main bike for dry (mainly) runs out for the sheer joy of riding. My brother recently bought a new 2023 Triumph 765 Street Triple R, a two wheeled sculpture if ever there was such a thing. The Street Triple was to join his stable of bikes alongside his classic Triumph Daytona 1200, and another classic, the Honda CB250 RSA you see below. The little Honda was his ‘hack bike’ back in the day, not used since 2010 and carefully stored, dry and covered in our Dad’s old garage. That garage is a shrine to our dear father, not really disturbed since his sad passing in 2016.

So the Street Triple needed room, the garage needs sorting but both my brother and I are dreading the day we have to disturb our Dad’s workshop and birthplace to so much of his woodwork creativity, and so many precious memories. The motorcycling bug never dies, although I myself have not ridden for over 20 years, the pull has always been there and watching the wonderful Allen Millyard‘s YouTube channel has fed my interest in the mean time, and when my brother suggested I take custody of his little classic Honda and get her back on the road I jumped at the chance!

… And Why ‘Zen’?

There’s a stand out section for me in the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, and it is the part where the author describes making, or proposing to make makeshift ‘shims’ for his friends John and Sylvia Sutherland’s new and exclusively dealer serviced BMW motorcycle. Pirsig tries to explain how shims made from a discarded Coca-Cola can would be perfectly adequate and functionally identical to those fitted by the BMW Dealer’s mechanics at exorbitant costs. John Sutherland could not see this or be convinced, so programmed was he that only the main dealer has the expertise, equipment and materials to carry out such a task.

“In the book, the narrator describes the “romantic” approach to life of his friend, John Sutherland, who chooses not to learn how to maintain his expensive new motorcycle. John simply hopes for the best with his bike, and when problems do occur he often becomes frustrated and is forced to rely on professional mechanics to repair it. In contrast, the “classical” narrator has an older motorcycle which he is usually able to diagnose and repair himself through the use of rational problem-solving skills.”

Zen and the Art of DIY Motorcycle Maintenance #06 …

Rear Brake Adjust …

A 40 year old Classic Honda Motorcycle. No road tax, no MOT, cheap to run, cheap to insure – an answer to the Cost Of Living Crisis? Maybe, but more importantly for me, a mindful escape into hands on problem solving and rejuvenating old skills.

What follows is a pictorial account with description of the progress of that restoration – Part 6 Rear Brake Adjustment …

Every motorcycle I’ve ridden since I came to grief on a bike in 1979 has required an adjustment to the rear brake pedal to compensate for my resulting ‘drop foot’.

Because of the medical condition I mention above, I need to have the rear brake pedal set a lot lower than standard. This has always been achievable with a few tweaks to the existing adjustment points. In the diagram above, the height of the rear brake pedal (1) is set by adjusting bolt (6) and locknut (5). However the standard bolt (6) is not long enough to achieve my desired pedal height, so I substitute for a longer bolt. Also to achieve the necessary lowering of the pedal I remove the brake pedal and turn it clockwise by one increment on its splined shaft (9) See actual images below …
To remove the lever, this clamping bolt has to be fully removed as it sits in a groove on the shaft (see 9 on the diagram above)
Here is the actual rear brake lever pivot having been removed and turned clockwise by one increment on its splined shaft. You can see the dot on the shaft and the dot on the lever are now not aligned as they were when the bike left the factory.
Here I have removed the original adjusting bolt and locknut which is too short to achieve the lower pedal I require.
Does anybody remember these small tins of Golden Virginia rolling tobacco? Back in the day my Father would roll his own cigarettes or ‘roll-ups’, these little tins were (and still are) very useful for storing bits and bobs. I think this tin and its contents must be at least 45 years old! This tin and another like it have sat in my tool shed wherever I have lived, and these tins were the first place I looked to see if I had anything suitable to use as an extended brake pedal stop/adjusting bolt.
… And I found just the thing, a countersunk, socket headed high tensile setscrew about 10mm longer than the original bolt.
Having set the pedal at the desired/lower hight using the new stop screw, my attention now turned to re-adjusting the actual brake operation as my changes at the pedal/lever had upset the setting. The rear brake operating arm (12) is adjusted by the special nut/cam seen below …
The rear brake adjuster nut/cam
So, while adjusting the brake I noticed movement of the brake operating arm on its splined shaft, but when attempting to tighten the clamp bolt it was apparent that something was not right … (see below)
And here’s the clamp bolt & nut removed showing stripped bolt thread
So another rummage through the tobacco tin of useful bits and bobs produced a perfect length stainless steel cap screw, washer and nut – result!
And here it is fitted and tightened – job done!

The last step is to re-adjust the rear brake light switch. For some reason I forgot to take a picture of said switch and there is no image/diagram in the Haynes Manual. At some point, for continuity I will take a picture and edit this post.

While working under the bike on the rear brake etc, I noticed a missing exhaust clamp bolt. So another rummage through the ancient tobacco tin produced a perfect stainless steel bolt/washer and nylon nut (see below)
Another little job done and working towards this old bike’s first MOT test in 12 years … fingers crossed.

End of Part 6.

Thank you for reading.

Recap Part 2 Part 1 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 7

… And if you’ve just joined at Part 6, below is a little background to this story.

Motorcycling is in my blood [ RIP Dad – A Truly Great Father ] and because of motorcycles I’ve literally spilled many pints of blood [ Conscious Throughout ] My Dad passed the DNA and the bug to me in 1976 aged 15. My younger brother then aged 10 also caught the bug and eventually carried on the motorcycling tradition for far longer than myself. I rode on and off from age 15 to 40, all weathers, commuting on various ‘hack bikes’ while pampering and saving the main bike for dry (mainly) runs out for the sheer joy of riding. My brother recently bought a new 2023 Triumph 765 Street Triple R, a two wheeled sculpture if ever there was such a thing. The Street Triple was to join his stable of bikes alongside his classic Triumph Daytona 1200, and another classic, the Honda CB250 RSA you see below. The little Honda was his ‘hack bike’ back in the day, not used since 2010 and carefully stored, dry and covered in our Dad’s old garage. That garage is a shrine to our dear father, not really disturbed since his sad passing in 2016.

So the Street Triple needed room, the garage needs sorting but both my brother and I are dreading the day we have to disturb our Dad’s workshop and birthplace to so much of his woodwork creativity, and so many precious memories. The motorcycling bug never dies, although I myself have not ridden for over 20 years, the pull has always been there and watching the wonderful Allen Millyard‘s YouTube channel has fed my interest in the mean time, and when my brother suggested I take custody of his little classic Honda and get her back on the road I jumped at the chance!

… And Why ‘Zen’?

There’s a stand out section for me in the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, and it is the part where the author describes making, or proposing to make makeshift ‘shims’ for his friends John and Sylvia Sutherland’s new and exclusively dealer serviced BMW motorcycle. Pirsig tries to explain how shims made from a discarded Coca-Cola can would be perfectly adequate and functionally identical to those fitted by the BMW Dealer’s mechanics at exorbitant costs. John Sutherland could not see this or be convinced, so programmed was he that only the main dealer has the expertise, equipment and materials to carry out such a task.

“In the book, the narrator describes the “romantic” approach to life of his friend, John Sutherland, who chooses not to learn how to maintain his expensive new motorcycle. John simply hopes for the best with his bike, and when problems do occur he often becomes frustrated and is forced to rely on professional mechanics to repair it. In contrast, the “classical” narrator has an older motorcycle which he is usually able to diagnose and repair himself through the use of rational problem-solving skills.”

Zen and the Art of DIY Motorcycle Maintenance #05 …

New Grips & Twist Grip Throttle Tube …

A 40 year old Classic Honda Motorcycle. No road tax, no MOT, cheap to run, cheap to insure – an answer to the Cost Of Living Crisis?

What follows is a pictorial account with description of the progress of that restoration – Part 5 New Grips …

In the big box of new parts from David Silver Spares ordered by my brother, were two new original Honda handlebar grips. So these very worn, very old ‘SB’ Super Bike? grips had to go.
Here is the new Original Honda grip on the clutch side
But .. look at the state of the throttle tube once the grip (which was basically holding it together) was removed …

So, onto the David Silver Spares website to order a genuine Honda “Throttle Pipe
As can be seen – it really did need changing though the damage was hidden under the grip rubber.
2 screws hold the switch gear assembly together, these are removed from the underside (different lengths so remember) the top half can then be prised off but take care not to strain the wiring.
To release the two throttle cables it was necessary to release the cable from the carburettor again (see part 4). This gives enough slack to unhook the cables from the throttle pipe. It’s a fiddly job without completely disconnecting the switchgear cables, but doable with a little perserverance.
The two switchgear halves can be hooked up out of the way to get good access to the handlebar itself which was in need of some attention.
The handle bar was originally painted black. We’re not sure if that is standard original finish? Anyway, the paint had mainly worn off due to years of throttle operation and with the ingress of water that bare metal had gone rusty.
The handlebar in the process of cleaning with fine emery cloth to remove the rust. Rightly or wrongly I decided to smear the whole exposed metal surface where the throttle pipe would be rotating with a good quality grease. No idea if this is good/bad practice but my thinking is that the grease will prevent ingress of water, protect the bare metal and lubricate the moving throttle pipe as it turns.
… And here’s the new throttle pipe with ‘close throttle’ cable in place
And from the other side
And with the switchgear back in place and secure and the new Honda twist grip rubber fitted.
So, she’s pretty much ready to go! Starts 2nd kick (I need more practice) all electrics are working, lights, indicators, horn, both brake lights! I’ve checked the chain tension, tyre pressures, mirrors back on (apologies again for the background clutter but this is basically the only work space I have for the complete bike) Once she’s legally roadworthy I’ll get some better pictures.

A word on the ‘legally roadworthy’ bit – The bike is 40 years old so technically eligible for (here in the UK at least) the taxation class ‘Historic Vehicle’. My brother and I were unsure how this all worked so I e-mailed the DVLA to enquire and I’ve posted their reply below …

We appreciate that you have taken the time to contact us in relation to this matter.​
 
It may help if I explain, the taxation class Historic Vehicle is a 40 year rolling exemption and currently applies to vehicles manufactured before 1st January 1983.
If this isn’t recorded on the V5C Registration Certificate but the vehicle was manufactured prior to this date, you will need to produce dating evidence and submit the application to DVLA, Swansea, SA99 1BF.
The following documentation will need to be submitted:
– V5C Registration Certificate
– V62 Application for a registration certificate if you are not in possession of the V5C* (You will need the VIN/Chassis Number to complete the application)
– V10 Tax Application form
– valid MOT Certificate (if applicable) or V112 ‘Exemption from MOT testing’ form
– Dating evidence
*Please note that there is a £25 charge if a V62 is completed. This will need to be included by cheque or postal order.
You should write ‘Historic’ in the change to taxation class field in section (*) of the V5C and sign section 8 (Delete if new V5C).
Acceptable dating evidence can be obtained from:
– an extract from the manufacturer/factory record – these will have the chassis number of the vehicle against the month and year of production*
– an extract from the ‘Glasses guide’ – which is a comprehensive guide on production dates and includes chassis numbers.
– a dating letter that is accompanied by an extract from or references the “Trader Handbook”* An extract from the Trader handbook alone is not acceptable.
*A certified copy of the factory record (with the embedded stamp) will be acceptable only from the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust (BMIHT).
The vehicle will be taxed within 10 working days. This can be checked at: https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-tax
Vehicles manufactured more than 40 years ago are exempt from MOT testing.
Please be aware that it is the keeper or driver of the vehicle’s responsibility for ensuring the vehicle is in a road worthy condition and safe to be driven on the road.
If you pay your tax via Direct Debit it will be cancelled automatically and future payments will be stopped when we receive notification that you have changed your vehicle tax class.
Please also note that there is a 10% surcharge on 6 monthly vehicle tax renewals (5% for 6 monthly Direct Debit) that is not refundable.
More information on the Historic vehicle tax class can be found on information leaflet INF34 Taxing Historic Vehicles.
All our services are operating within normal turnaround times as paper applications are being processed within 3 to 4 weeks.
Please allow 4 weeks for your new documents to be sent to you if applying by post. Please do not call us within those 4 weeks as your application will be processing and we will not be able to provide further information.
Information regarding any DVLA services can be found at: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/dvla-services-update
Form V62 can be downloaded from www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration-certificate-v5c-log-book or obtained from a Post Office® that deals with vehicle tax.
Form V10 can be downloaded from www.gov.uk/car-tax-disc-vehicle-licence-using-form-v10 or obtained from a Post Office® that deals with vehicle tax.
Form V112 can be downloaded from www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/vehicles-exempt-from-mot
 
I hope this information is of assistance to you and answers your entire enquiry.

So, it appears that the bike will not actually qualify for free road tax and become MOT exempt until 2024.

Next step is an MOT test which is now booked with The Motorcycle Man a few miles from where I live. Fingers crossed she passes. Then it’s apply for road tax, hopefully just 6 months and from then on road tax exempt.

I will of course update the story in due course.

End of Part 5.

Thank you for reading.

Recap Part 2 Part 1 Part 3 Part 4 Part 6 Part 7

… And if you’ve just joined at Part 5, below is a little background to this story.

Motorcycling is in my blood [ RIP Dad – A Truly Great Father ] and because of motorcycles I’ve literally spilled many pints of blood [ Conscious Throughout ] My Dad passed the DNA and the bug to me in 1976 aged 15. My younger brother then aged 10 also caught the bug and eventually carried on the motorcycling tradition for far longer than myself. I rode on and off from age 15 to 40, all weathers, commuting on various ‘hack bikes’ while pampering and saving the main bike for dry (mainly) runs out for the sheer joy of riding. My brother recently bought a new 2023 Triumph 765 Street Triple R, a two wheeled sculpture if ever there was such a thing. The Street Triple was to join his stable of bikes alongside his classic Triumph Daytona 1200, and another classic, the Honda CB250 RSA you see below. The little Honda was his ‘hack bike’ back in the day, not used since 2010 and carefully stored, dry and covered in our Dad’s old garage. That garage is a shrine to our dear father, not really disturbed since his sad passing in 2016.

So the Street Triple needed room, the garage needs sorting but both my brother and I are dreading the day we have to disturb our Dad’s workshop and birthplace to so much of his woodwork creativity, and so many precious memories. The motorcycling bug never dies, although I myself have not ridden for over 20 years, the pull has always been there and watching the wonderful Allen Millyard‘s YouTube channel has fed my interest in the mean time, and when my brother suggested I take custody of his little classic Honda and get her back on the road I jumped at the chance!

… And Why ‘Zen’?

There’s a stand out section for me in the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, and it is the part where the author describes making, or proposing to make makeshift ‘shims’ for his friends John and Sylvia Sutherland’s new and exclusively dealer serviced BMW motorcycle. Pirsig tries to explain how shims made from a discarded Coca-Cola can would be perfectly adequate and functionally identical to those fitted by the BMW Dealer’s mechanics at exorbitant costs. John Sutherland could not see this or be convinced, so programmed was he that only the main dealer has the expertise, equipment and materials to carry out such a task.

“In the book, the narrator describes the “romantic” approach to life of his friend, John Sutherland, who chooses not to learn how to maintain his expensive new motorcycle. John simply hopes for the best with his bike, and when problems do occur he often becomes frustrated and is forced to rely on professional mechanics to repair it. In contrast, the “classical” narrator has an older motorcycle which he is usually able to diagnose and repair himself through the use of rational problem-solving skills.”

Recap Part 2 Part 1 Part 3 Part 4 Part 6 Part 7

Zen and the Art of DIY Motorcycle Maintenance #04 …

Carburettor Strip and Clean …

A 40 year old Classic Honda Motorcycle. No road tax, no MOT, cheap to run, cheap to insure – an answer to the Cost Of Living Crisis?

What follows is a pictorial account with description of the progress of that restoration – Part 4 Carb strip and clean …

For some reason I have very few detailed pictures of this process which basically consisted of removing the bike’s side panels/seat/petrol tank. Disconnecting both the (push/pull) throttle cables, the choke cable, float drain tube, inlet & air box rubber jubilee clips. To make more room I also decided to remove the air box which in turn means removing the battery to gain access to 2x air box bolts.

The carburettor in situ …
… Side panels, seat and tank off
This is the air box with cover off and filter out …
Battery out to gain access to 2x bolts securing air box
… and the air box off complete with filter
NS view with carb, air box and battery out
OS view
Carb NS after initial clean showing throttle quadrant/cam and idle adjusting screw, fuel feed pipe
OS view showing choke quadrant and corroded accelerator pump rod/bellows

I didn’t do too much to the top end of the carb except check the slide operation and inspect through the inlet/outlet openings. I concentrated on the bottom end, mainly float, float needle valve, main jet, etc. The float was contaminated with some sediment which came off easily with a a soft brass wire brush and old tooth brush. The main issue was the accelerator pump operating rod which was seized and quite corroded but cleaned up well with a little gentle work using the brass wire brush, fine wet & dry paper and copious amounts of carb cleaner spray.

Page 82 of the Haynes Manual showing an exploded view of the carburettor. My main concern was part #61 which has integral operating rod that had become corroded.
The accelerator pump diaphragm and operating rod which cleaned up nicely and operates well now
Refitting the carb is basically a reversal of all the above steps. Here is the top view of the carb refitted and all cables reconnected, the push/pull throttle cables on the left and the choke cable right.

Next job was the battery, we’d ordered a new battery from David Silver Spares

New battery fitted and connected
… And a quick multimeter check displaying a healthy 12.65 volts out of the box!

Before refitting the petrol tank I drained the old stale petrol, removed/inspected/replaced the tap and took the tank for a ride …

… for 5 litres of E5 which my local filling station still keeps on one pump

Which left only one thing to do … and after 4 kicks on the Kick Starter, she fired into life for the first time since 2011

First Start walk around

End of Part 4.

Thank you for reading.

Recap Part 2 Part 1 Part 3 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7

… And if you’ve just joined at Part 4, below is a little background to this story.

Motorcycling is in my blood [ RIP Dad – A Truly Great Father ] and because of motorcycles I’ve literally spilled many pints of blood [ Conscious Throughout ] My Dad passed the DNA and the bug to me in 1976 aged 15. My younger brother then aged 10 also caught the bug and eventually carried on the motorcycling tradition for far longer than myself. I rode on and off from age 15 to 40, all weathers, commuting on various ‘hack bikes’ while pampering and saving the main bike for dry (mainly) runs out for the sheer joy of riding. My brother recently bought a new 2023 Triumph 765 Street Triple R, a two wheeled sculpture if ever there was such a thing. The Street Triple was to join his stable of bikes alongside his classic Triumph Daytona 1200, and another classic, the Honda CB250 RSA you see below. The little Honda was his ‘hack bike’ back in the day, not used since 2010 and carefully stored, dry and covered in our Dad’s old garage. That garage is a shrine to our dear father, not really disturbed since his sad passing in 2016.

So the Street Triple needed room, the garage needs sorting but both my brother and I are dreading the day we have to disturb our Dad’s workshop and birthplace to so much of his woodwork creativity, and so many precious memories. The motorcycling bug never dies, although I myself have not ridden for over 20 years, the pull has always been there and watching the wonderful Allen Millyard‘s YouTube channel has fed my interest in the mean time, and when my brother suggested I take custody of his little classic Honda and get her back on the road I jumped at the chance!

… And Why ‘Zen’?

There’s a stand out section for me in the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, and it is the part where the author describes making, or proposing to make makeshift ‘shims’ for his friends John and Sylvia Sutherland’s new and exclusively dealer serviced BMW motorcycle. Pirsig tries to explain how shims made from a discarded Coca-Cola can would be perfectly adequate and functionally identical to those fitted by the BMW Dealer’s mechanics at exorbitant costs. John Sutherland could not see this or be convinced, so programmed was he that only the main dealer has the expertise, equipment and materials to carry out such a task.

“In the book, the narrator describes the “romantic” approach to life of his friend, John Sutherland, who chooses not to learn how to maintain his expensive new motorcycle. John simply hopes for the best with his bike, and when problems do occur he often becomes frustrated and is forced to rely on professional mechanics to repair it. In contrast, the “classical” narrator has an older motorcycle which he is usually able to diagnose and repair himself through the use of rational problem-solving skills.”

Recap Part 2 Part 1 Part 3 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7

Zen and the Art of DIY Motorcycle Maintenance #03 …

Front Brake – What Front Brake? (Part 3)

Renovating Brake Calliper

A 40 year old Classic Honda Motorcycle. No road tax, no MOT, cheap to run, cheap to insure – an answer to the Cost Of Living Crisis?

What follows is a pictorial account with description of the 1st phase of that restoration – The missing Front Brake Part 3 …

Here’s the calliper cylinder with the corroded piston finally out, the accumulated sludge and corrosion clearly visible.
All the calliper castings before final clean
… And after cleaning

At this point I considered re-painting all the calliper parts while they were disassembled. To do this properly we (my brother and I) concluded the parts would have to go away to a specialist and as this project had a shoestring budget that was not an option. We also agreed that the ‘original’ look of the bike was important and there is a certain honesty and genuine appeal to the ‘weathered’ look of the callipers which matches the overall look of the bike as being loved but also well used. A shiny lacquered stove enamelled paint job would most definitely look out of place. Functionality was our prime concern.

So we needed a seal kit and first stop for classic Honda spares is David Silver Spares and a full list of available spares for the CB 250 RSA can be seen here. Unfortunately no brake calliper parts. Next stop E-bay and seller Powerhouse listed just the kit I needed.

Everything we needed – Result!
Here I am ready to go, another ‘pop up workstation’ location in the shade early evening.
The first seal fitted was the cylinder/piston seal seen here sitting nicely in its groove. The cylinder cleaned up ‘ok’ would love to have access to an ultrasonic cleaner (but that budget remember) so time and elbow grease it was.
Despite the awful appearance of the piston (see part 2 for images) it did clean up very well. Ideally a new piston but that was another £25 so not this time. Here is the piston back in the cylinder with new piston gaiter, all part of the Powerhouse kit. Note the damage to the piston by pipe grips/mole grips/vice … who knows? Not my brother or me, some previous owner? I removed the piston using ‘This Method‘ … 🙂
One of the two calliper slide bolts has this rubber sleeve which had perished and seemed to have swollen, there was no way it was going to slide back in, but a new sleeve was included in the Powerhouse kit.
Here’s a (poor quality – sorry) exploded view from the Haynes Manual … essential reference guide.
1 of 4 new sliding bolt gaiters
All 4 sliding bolt gaiters fitted (2 unseen at the back) and sliding calliper half assembled.
And here is the calliper assembled with new bleed nipple and new rubber bleed nipple cover.
And here is the calliper back on the bike, bled and ready to go.

End of Part 3.

Thank you for reading.

Recap Part 2 Part 1 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7

… And if you’ve just joined at Part 3, below is a little background to this story.

Motorcycling is in my blood [ RIP Dad – A Truly Great Father ] and because of motorcycles I’ve literally spilled many pints of blood [ Conscious Throughout ] My Dad passed the DNA and the bug to me in 1976 aged 15. My younger brother then aged 10 also caught the bug and eventually carried on the motorcycling tradition for far longer than myself. I rode on and off from age 15 to 40, all weathers, commuting on various ‘hack bikes’ while pampering and saving the main bike for dry (mainly) runs out for the sheer joy of riding. My brother recently bought a new 2023 Triumph 765 Street Triple R, a two wheeled sculpture if ever there was such a thing. The Street Triple was to join his stable of bikes alongside his classic Triumph Daytona 1200, and another classic, the Honda CB250 RSA you see below. The little Honda was his ‘hack bike’ back in the day, not used since 2010 and carefully stored, dry and covered in our Dad’s old garage. That garage is a shrine to our dear father, not really disturbed since his sad passing in 2016.

So the Street Triple needed room, the garage needs sorting but both my brother and I are dreading the day we have to disturb our Dad’s workshop and birthplace to so much of his woodwork creativity, and so many precious memories. The motorcycling bug never dies, although I myself have not ridden for over 20 years, the pull has always been there and watching the wonderful Allen Millyard‘s YouTube channel has fed my interest in the mean time, and when my brother suggested I take custody of his little classic Honda and get her back on the road I jumped at the chance!

… And Why ‘Zen’?

There’s a stand out section for me in the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, and it is the part where the author describes making, or proposing to make makeshift ‘shims’ for his friends John and Sylvia Sutherland’s new and exclusively dealer serviced BMW motorcycle. Pirsig tries to explain how shims made from a discarded Coca-Cola can would be perfectly adequate and functionally identical to those fitted by the BMW Dealer’s mechanics at exorbitant costs. John Sutherland could not see this or be convinced, so programmed was he that only the main dealer has the expertise, equipment and materials to carry out such a task.

“In the book, the narrator describes the “romantic” approach to life of his friend, John Sutherland, who chooses not to learn how to maintain his expensive new motorcycle. John simply hopes for the best with his bike, and when problems do occur he often becomes frustrated and is forced to rely on professional mechanics to repair it. In contrast, the “classical” narrator has an older motorcycle which he is usually able to diagnose and repair himself through the use of rational problem-solving skills.”

Part 2 Part 1 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7

Zen and the Art of DIY Motorcycle Maintenance #02 …

Front Brake – What Front Brake? (Part 2)

Removal Of Seized Front Brake Piston – The Easy Way

A 40 year old Classic Honda Motorcycle. No road tax, no MOT, cheap to run – an answer to the Cost Of Living Crisis?

What follows is a pictorial account with description of the 1st phase of that restoration – The missing Front Brake Part 2 …

So, I don’t have a garage and the drive where I can work on the bike is south facing. It was a very hot day and my solution was to set up a ‘Pop Up Workstation’ consisting of a workmate under the BBQ parasol.
All set and in the shade … result
Calliper off the bike and on the bench … well, workmate!

Makeshift brake fluid ‘catcher’ cable tied to fork leg while the calliper is stripped and parts ordered
First challenge was the single screw holing the pressed steel pad cover. Didn’t want to budge so I dug out another 40+ year old relic … see next image
… A couple of sharp taps using my trusty impact driver had that screw out undamaged.
With the cover plate off the old pads and the general mucky condition of the calliper’s working parts could be seen.
The 2 pins that locate the pads were in no mood to pull out easily, a gentle tap with a Pin Punch persuaded the pins to surrender without any fuss or damage
Apologies for the out-of-focus image. And here came another lesson! To dismantle the calliper and gain access to the sliding bolts that create the ‘floating calliper’ design, a 14mm ‘reduced socket’ is required. This issue ‘stopped play’ for that day while a socket was ordered! … (next day) … With the correct socket the 2 bolts undid ‘reasonably easily’ but another rusty mechanic’s mistake meant it was more of a struggle than it should have been – note for next time – release these 2 bolts while the calliper is still on the fork leg, easily reachable through the spokes of the from wheel with a 4″ extension.
… Here is the calliper half complete with seized piston (see my mistake yet?) …
… And here is the whole calliper dissasembled

And here is yet another ‘rusty mechanics’ failing! It has been over 20 years since I worked on bikes but … NO EXCUSE! That piston is going NOWHERE! Looking closely I could see the piston had previously been subject to the stilsons/pipe grips/vice jaws treatment, no way to treat a piston! I tried briefly with compressed air (albeit from a hand pump) to no avail. Anyhow, what I should have thought of earlier and saved myself a lot of time and double handling was to use good old hydraulic pressure to force out that stubborn piston. In other words use the actual brake system to remove the piston.

So, I loosely re-assembled the calliper lightly nipping the sliding bolts. re-attached the calliper minus brake pads, sliding bolt rubber boots, piston rubber boot etc, using just one fork leg bolt so as to enable swinging the calliper clear of the disc, re-connected the hydraulic ‘banjo’ fitting, bled the system (again!) and … see below

… Note the calliper attached using just one bolt to enable the calliper to be swung out away from and clear of the brake disc. Banjo re-attached and system bled.
Here’s a brief video of the piston being persuaded to move …
Here is the piston pumped out as far as possible using the brake lever and good old hydraulics. One thing to be aware of when using this technique is that the fluid reservoir is not designed/does not have the oil capacity to move the piston this far. while gently pumping the brake lever, keep an eye on the fluid level and keep topping up to avoid ingress of air.
So here is the calliper off the bike and stripped again. As you cn see that piston is in very bad shape.
Again with the piston completely out showing the extent of the corrosion.

End of Part 2. 

Thank you for reading.

… And if you’ve just joined at Part 2, below is a little background to this story.

Motorcycling is in my blood [ RIP Dad – A Truly Great Father ] and because of motorcycles I’ve literally spilled many pints of blood [ Conscious Throughout ] My Dad passed the DNA and the bug to me in 1976 aged 15. My younger brother then aged 10 also caught the bug and eventually carried on the motorcycling tradition for far longer than myself. I rode on and off from age 15 to 40, all weathers, commuting on various ‘hack bikes’ while pampering and saving the main bike for dry (mainly) runs out for the sheer joy of riding. My brother recently bought a new 2023 Triumph 765 Street Triple R, a two wheeled sculpture if ever there was such a thing. The Street Triple was to join his stable of bikes alongside his classic Triumph Daytona 1200, and another classic, the Honda CB250 RSA you see below. The little Honda was his ‘hack bike’ back in the day, not used since 2010 and carefully stored, dry and covered in our Dad’s old garage. That garage is a shrine to our dear father, not really disturbed since his sad passing in 2016.

So the Street Triple needed room, the garage needs sorting but both my brother and I are dreading the day we have to disturb our Dad’s workshop and birthplace to so much of his woodwork creativity, and so many precious memories. The motorcycling bug never dies, although I myself have not ridden for over 20 years, the pull has always been there and watching the wonderful Allen Millyard‘s YouTube channel has fed my interest in the mean time, and when my brother suggested I take custody of his little classic Honda and get her back on the road I jumped at the chance!

… And Why ‘Zen’?

There’s a stand out section for me in the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, and it is the part where the author describes making, or proposing to make makeshift ‘shims’ for his friends John and Sylvia Sutherland’s new and exclusively dealer serviced BMW motorcycle. Pirsig tries to explain how shims made from a discarded Coca-Cola can would be perfectly adequate and functionally identical to those fitted by the BMW Dealer’s mechanics at exorbitant costs. John Sutherland could not see this or be convinced, so programmed was he that only the main dealer has the expertise, equipment and materials to carry out such a task.

“In the book, the narrator describes the “romantic” approach to life of his friend, John Sutherland, who chooses not to learn how to maintain his expensive new motorcycle. John simply hopes for the best with his bike, and when problems do occur he often becomes frustrated and is forced to rely on professional mechanics to repair it. In contrast, the “classical” narrator has an older motorcycle which he is usually able to diagnose and repair himself through the use of rational problem-solving skills.”

Recap Part 1 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7

Zen and the Art of DIY Motorcycle Maintenance #01 …

Front Brake – What Front Brake? (Part 1)

Motorcycling is in my blood [ RIP Dad – A Truly Great Father ] and because of motorcycles I’ve literally spilled many pints of blood [ Conscious Throughout ] My Dad passed the DNA and the bug to me in 1976 aged 15. My younger brother then aged 10 also caught the bug and eventually carried on the motorcycling tradition for far longer than myself. I rode on and off from age 15 to 40, all weathers, commuting on various ‘hack bikes’ while pampering and saving the main bike for dry (mainly) runs out for the sheer joy of riding. My brother recently bought a new 2023 Triumph 765 Street Triple R, a two wheeled sculpture if ever there was such a thing. The Street Triple was to join his stable of bikes alongside his classic Triumph Daytona 1200, and another classic, the Honda CB250 RSA you see below. The little Honda was his ‘hack bike’ back in the day, not used since 2010 and carefully stored, dry and covered in our Dad’s old garage. That garage is a shrine to our dear father, not really disturbed since his sad passing in 2016.

So the Street Triple needed room, the garage needs sorting but both my brother and I are dreading the day we have to disturb our Dad’s workshop and birthplace to so much of his woodwork creativity, and so many precious memories. The motorcycling bug never dies, although I myself have not ridden for over 20 years, the pull has always been there and watching the wonderful Allen Millyard‘s YouTube channel has fed my interest in the mean time, and when my brother suggested I take custody of his little classic Honda and get her back on the road I jumped at the chance!

What follows is a pictorial account with description of the 1st phase of that restoration – The missing Front Brake …

So here she is, a 1983 Honda CB 250 RSA. All standard apart from the exhaust which is now a Motad 2-into-1 system. Seen here still in Dad’s garage/workshop ready for a 60 mile ride in the back of my brother’s van to me for some new parts to get her roadworthy again.
View from the seat, 51,000 miles on the clock, note the missing front brake lever/reservoir/master cylinder.
One last view from the front before loading onto the van. A fine looking little motorcycle!
And here she is on my drive (excuse the car/clutter in the background!
1st job was to replace the front brake lever assembly. Note the new unit in the background against the original in the foreground. The whole brake lever unit was supplied by David Silver Spares who are Honda specialists, especially classic models like this 1983 CB 250 RSA – 40 Years Old!
New unit came with new hydraulic ‘banjo’ clamping bolt (right) I needed to re-use the 2 copper washers (seen on the original bolt left) So …
… I gave them a light clean with fine emery cloth and made a makeshift ‘annealing jig’ out of an old nail!
Then into the kitchen with the nail clamped in mole grips to hook the 2 washers and heat over the gas hob until cherry red before plunging in cold water.
Here are the 2 annealed washers assembled on the new bolt and brake lever unit ready for tightening.
And here it is fitted, hydraulic banjo bolt & washers tightened, rubber boot fitted. And also the new David Silver supplied brake lever assembly included an inbuilt brake light micro switch (which the original did not) The wiring however was there and just needed connecting! We think this is the first time in this bike’s 40 year life that the brake/stop light has worked for the front brake!
Here’s the brand new front brake hydraulic fluid reservoir squeaky clean and ready for DOT 4 brake fluid also supplied by David Silver Spares …. BUT!!

So. I made my first rusty mechanic’s mistake here! I proceeded to fill the reservoir, and bleed the system via the brake caliper bleed nipple/drain tube etc. All Good. But it wasn’t! something was wrong and it soon became apparent that the calliper/piston/sliding half was seized! Stupid oversight, I should have stripped & inspected the brake calliper on a 40 year old bike that hadn’t been ridden since 2011!

Why ‘Zen’?

There’s a stand out section for me in the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, and it is the part where the author describes making, or proposing to make makeshift ‘shims’ for his friends John and Sylvia Sutherland’s new and exclusively dealer serviced BMW motorcycle. Pirsig tries to explain how shims made from a discarded Coca-Cola can would be perfectly adequate and functionally identical to those fitted by the BMW Dealer’s mechanics at exorbitant costs. John Sutherland could not see this or be convinced, so programmed was he that only the main dealer has the expertise, equipment and materials to carry out such a task.

“In the book, the narrator describes the “romantic” approach to life of his friend, John Sutherland, who chooses not to learn how to maintain his expensive new motorcycle. John simply hopes for the best with his bike, and when problems do occur he often becomes frustrated and is forced to rely on professional mechanics to repair it. In contrast, the “classical” narrator has an older motorcycle which he is usually able to diagnose and repair himself through the use of rational problem-solving skills.”

End of Part 1.

Thank you for reading.

Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7

Zen and the Art of DIY Car Maintenance #03 …

There’s a stand out section for me in the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, and it is the part where the author describes making, or proposing to make makeshift ‘shims’ for his friends John and Sylvia Sutherland’s new and exclusively dealer serviced BMW motorcycle. Pirsig tries to explain how shims made from a discarded Coca-Cola can would be perfectly adequate and functionally identical to those fitted by the BMW Dealer’s mechanics at exorbitant costs. John Sutherland could not see this or be convinced, so programmed was he that only the main dealer has the expertise, equipment and materials to carry out such a task.

“In the book, the narrator describes the “romantic” approach to life of his friend, John Sutherland, who chooses not to learn how to maintain his expensive new motorcycle. John simply hopes for the best with his bike, and when problems do occur he often becomes frustrated and is forced to rely on professional mechanics to repair it. In contrast, the “classical” narrator has an older motorcycle which he is usually able to diagnose and repair himself through the use of rational problem-solving skills.”

So, what has this got to do with the 3 old cars in my family you may ask? A short time ago I wrote about the dreaded ‘Engine Fault’ light, cheap DIY diagnostic tools and repairing the EGR Valve. In that post I discovered and pointed out a missing ‘gasket’, missing for several years it turns out, omitted by accident or through lack of care by a ‘reputable’ local garage of self proclaimed ‘Motor Engineers’. At the time, needing the car back on the road and concluding that one more week running minus the gasket while I source a replacement can’t do that much harm, I re-assembled, tested and had the car back on the road.

At the end of that previous post I even screen shot an image of the replacement gasket I’d found and ordered for what I considered quite a hefty price of £9.99! Anyway, gasket arrived but car was busy until this last Sunday when both car was available and weather favourable (yes I’m a wimp and have to work outside) for fitment, 1/2 hour, maybe one hour max? – Wrong! See below;

Spot the problem?
Gasket is the right material, thickness and most importantly – the centre hole diameter is correct. The problem is the pitch of the 2 outside holes which the clamping bolts pass through. In fact this gasket is correct for the other end of the connecting manifold, I ordered wrong, my bad!
I set about improvising a clamping arrangement to locate the gasket in the correct position so that I could use the clear bolt hole as a makeshift ‘jig’ and re-drill the clamping hole.
The gasket is in fact steel with some sort of sealing/fibre coating. Here it is after successfully re-drilling and re-positioning the first bolt clearance hole, 8.5mm diameter.
Using the first re-drilled hole I clamped the gasket to the manifold pipe so as to locate it correctly for the 2nd drilling operation …
… Using my trusty G-Clamp, a work mate bench, scrap wood and battery drill I proceeded to re-drill the 2nd bolt hole, again using the manifold pipe itself as a makeshift ‘jig’.
So here is the successfully modified gasket with bolt clearance holes now at the correct pitch. Not pretty but fully functional. I was hoping to be able to leave it in this form when re-fitting as the excess ‘ears’ would have been useful to hold the gasket in place while positioning the manifold and inserting the clamping bolts – but alas there was insufficient clearance so it was back to the tool shed for another modification …
… Out with the tin snips and OFF with those excess ‘ears’!
And here it is back in place, clamped, but most importantly ‘functional’.

When I was ‘on my tools’ in Heavy Engineering working as a Millwright, we used to say “the art of our trade was not when things went right, but how we overcame and resolved issues when things didn’t go right“. The little episode above reminded of that saying.

Please note: No Green ‘Recycling Wheelie Bins’ were harmed during the execution of this DIY Car Maintenance session 😉

Thank you for reading.

Mindful Domestic DIY #02 – Project Hedgehog House …

Making stuff to encourage wildlife and nature from scraps and surplus materials. Here’s something I knocked up back in the summer from bits and pieces that I didn’t know what else to do with, including that off-cut of roofing felt that’d been kicking around for years!

#Hedgehog, #HedgehogHouse, #Nature, #DIY, #MindfulDIY, #Mindfulness, #Wildlife,

Zen and the art of DIY Car Maintenance …

Keep your old car running, especially if it is fuel efficient — It’s the Green Option

Source: Is keeping my old car greener than buying a new EV?

In my family we have 3 old cars. The newest is a 2007 model with over 100,000 miles, and after its recent DIY service returned 66.1 MPG on a long run;

66.1 MPG from a 2007 2.3Litre Diesel with (now) 100K Miles on the ODO – Not Bad!

… the other 2 are 2003 models with 125,000 and 100,000 miles on their clocks respectively;

60.8 MPG, 2003 Toyota Yaris, 998cc Petrol over 100,000 miles on the clock and DIY serviced.

There is something very satisfying, rewarding (financially too) and I find ‘mindful’ about maintaining and repairing your own vehicle(s). I realise it is not for everyone, and care must be taken to do work properly and safely. I guess I’m fortunate to have a Mechanical Engineering background, I served a 6 year craft apprenticeship and worked with my hands ‘on the tools’ for many years. I was then promoted to a desk/computer and found myself organising the work for others to do.

Now, in my 60’s I have dug out the old tools, bought a couple of new ones, and primarily to save money on extortionate mechanics (with dubious skill levels and ability) labour fees, but then discovering the mindful benefits of ‘doing a good job yourself’, getting stuck in … I discovered an almost meditative experience, losing myself in the task at hand, rediscovering and re-applying those old skills and enjoying the benefits of wellbeing possibly more than the substantial financial savings.

Here are a few images taken while practicing ‘Zen and the art of DIY Car Maintenance‘.

Removed, pistons freed off, cleaned and re-assembled – Cost £0.00 just some mindful effort
A seized rear brake (slave) cylinder on my Daughters car.

The pictures below are of my DIY annual service of our family car. Engine Oil, Oil Filter, Fuel Filter and Air Filter;

Oil Filter Housing
Fuel Filter is under there somewhere …
… Get this fella out of the way and …
… There it is, disconnect a few pipes and electrics and …
… the fuel filter housing is out, now to strip it down
… drain the remaining fuel, in this case diesel …
Remove the water warning float …
Remove the filter cartridge

Inside the old filter fitted for less than a year
… compared to the new filter internal
All re-assembled and ready to refit
… And of course while I was there I replaced the Air Filter, again slightly less than one year old!
Cost of parts £26.04 (Local Garage Quoted £140.00) Mindful value, sense of achievement and job satisfaction = £Priceless 🙂

Same car as above, Toyota Corolla Verso 2.3 Diesel, inspecting and replacing rear brake pads;

Wheel off, and car well supported …
Caliper swung clear, g-clamp used to push piston back ready for new thicker pads …
Old pad (left) against new pad showing ‘tell tale’ wear indicator spring strip
calliper/pads sliding surfaces thoroughly cleaned and lightly coated with ‘copper slip’ compound, new pads installed.

Same car front brake pad replacement;

Car jacked, wheel off and steering turned full lock for easier access to calliper …
Calliper swung clear and trusty g-clamp used to push piston back …
New pad installed on driveshaft side …
Both new pads installed in cleaned and ‘copper slipped’ guides

My Daughter’s 2003 Toyota Yaris with over 125,000 miles on the clock developed an idle problem. It would hunt and stall at tickover, in traffic, at traffic lights etc. Perfectly fine starting and driving, but at idle something wasn’t right.

So I ‘Googled’ and searched YouTube and it seemed (as it often does) that this is a common problem that many makes and models of petrol engine cars of a certain age suffer from. And the culprit is the ‘Idle Control Valve’ located in the ‘Throttle Body’ … so I went in search and found the little devil;

Above is the engine with the Airbox removed, the airbox connects to the Throttle Body which is that circular opening you can see near the top centre of the picture …

Close up of the Throttle Body with the butterfly valve (operated by the throttle cable) closed …

There are several electrical plugs to unplug, also 2 rubber pipes that run coolant to the throttle body which may leak a little coolant so be prepared …

Here’s the Throttle Body removed …

The Idle Control Valve is held on with 4 screws …

… Here it is removed and I’d have liked to have removed the Idle valve itself but it is held on with these tamper proof ‘5 point star’ type screws which I do not have a tool for … oh well …

… The valve itself is a cylindrical shape with a cut out and is turned by a servo motor controlled by the ECU. As I suspected, it was filthy and clogged with oil and gunge! A good spray with Carb Cleaner, an old toothbrush and some patience and persistence had it a lot cleaner!

More Carb Cleaner, cloth and toothbrush action had the Throttle Body itself nice and clean, ready for re-fitting.

Re-assembly was just the reverse of the disassembly seen above. With all pipework and electrical plugs replaced, coolant level checked, it was time to start the engine — Yay! Success! The idle is good, no more hunting or stalling 🙂

Cost of parts £6.05 (for can of Carb Cleaner) £0.00 for Labour, £Priceless sense of achievement, reward and Mindful Wellbeing